In true Skye style, the Fairy Glen was near impossible to find. Well, with no prior planning, no phone signal and a weirdly useless car GPS it was. In the end I had to google “how to get to the fairy glen” and my favourite website of this trip came to my rescue once again – walkhighlands.
So basically, for all future travellers wanting to save time if you put into your GPS destination “Balnaknock” the Fairy Glen is along that road.
Again, nothing special, no ticket sales, no signage, no tour buses or hordes of tourists. The fairy glen is literally a cluster of bizarre grassy hill formations on the side of the road. You could literally drive straight past it, although in the pictures it looks like we have discovered an eerily abandoned bronze age site in the middle of nowhere. Perhaps it was our timing that led to it being almost abandoned, by the time we reached the fairy glen on our day of wandering it was almost 7:00pm and most likely all the sensible people were already in the pub eating fish and chips. We spent some time wandering around and clambering on top of the strange hills and soaking in the curious silence of the area.
We had to get back on the road though, because although Skye is a popular destination it hasn’t yet reached London levels of late dining, and most kitchens close at 9:00 or 9:30pm – dinner of hummous and rice crackers was not going to be repeated!
There were two more things I wanted to see on our little drive around the island, the Quiraing, often described as an alien landscape, and Kilt Rock – a huge sea cliff complete with waterfall cascading off the edge into the sea.
So rather than taking the quick route back to Portree and enticing thoughts of fish and chips, we took a small high mountain road that cut straight across the top of Skye. Eerily deserted we kept company with only heather and sheep on this small one lane road. With the light fading we popped out amongst the jagged cliffs and torrs that look as if they are covered in a layer of soft fuzzy moss. Eery and alien indeed, and crazily beautiful. We didn’t really have time to stop and walk and explore (fish and chips remember) so we had to be satisfied with pulling over the car on the side of the road and soaking up the landscape. Breathtaking.
Onwards to Kilt Rock!
Or not… owing to the fact I omitted to tell Mr. Driver I desired to stop there, with fish and chips firmly in his mind, the sign popped up and promptly flashed into the distance and we whizzed past in the car, too tired and hungry to protest I also set my mind to the local pub.
We arrived back to Portree rather late, but luckily still managed to get seated at the Caledonian Cafe where the fish and chips were great. We followed dinner with a couple of pints at the local pub that had a great live music duo and the locals were all getting rather merry. Ending in Will getting a rather unwanted and uncomfortable embrace and kiss on the cheek from an inebriated local lad. Dying with laughter.