Our next day on the Isle of Skye was jam packed. We planned to see as much of the north end of Skye as possible, so I have decided to split what we did across two posts.
After a luxuriously late start (considering we actually managed to sleep we decided we deserved it) we began our day driving to Neist Point.
The drive from Sligachan campsite is only about an hour but we stopped half way in Glendale at a cute cafe called Cafe Lephin for local roast beef rolls with horseradish cream, lemon drizzle cake and out-of-this-world scones! Refreshed and ready to get moving we were stopped in our tracks by some German tourists who had crashed their car into a ditch, and subsequently blocked the entire road with the tow truck. The Londoner in us was twitching to get moving, but in true highland fashion, everyone else was very happy to wait for the road to clear. Everyone is so friendly out this way we actually had to make a conscious effort to unwind and “unfrown” – the first time a stranger walking past said hello I actually got a fright.
Eventually we made it to our destination – Neist Point. It is the most westerly coast on the Isle of Skye and in true Scottish style, is breathtakingly and ruggedly beautiful. The view from the road is quite stunning, but we still braved the many steep stairs (dreading the return climb) to check out the cliffs below and the lighthouse.
We wandered down to check out the lighthouse, the Londoner in me expecting to pay an entry fee of some sort. It couldn’t have been more opposite. The lighthouse compound wasn’t just open to the public, it was completely trashed. It was actually quite disgusting – every room was filled with all sorts of household rubbish, old mattresses, tool kits, wine bottles, beer bottles, IRN BRU bottles, slabs of wood, human waste, sheep waste. It was nasty.
Moving on from the disappointingly disgusting interior of the lighthouse, We stood on the edge looking out to sea watching the sea birds that roost at Neist Point diving into the waves and whirling in the air before contemplating the difficult ascent back to the car.
Don’t get me wrong – Neist Point is SO beautiful and I really fell in love with it’s rugged beauty – just take my advice and don’t go into the lighthouse!
We continued our drive around the north of the island towards Uig, where we would have got the ferry to Harris weather permitting. We decided whilst we were in the area we would check out the Fairy Glen and Flora MacDonald’s grave. Both proved difficult to find!
The beautiful thing about Skye is also one of the most frustrating things; none of their “sights” are clearly signed, none come up on GPS as a destination and none are easy to find! Which leads to equal measure of happy accidents and frustrating driving in circles!
We had actually given up on finding the cemetery near Uig where Flora MacDonald, the famed Skye resident who whisked Bonnie Prince Charlie to Skye disguised as her housemaid after the disastrous Battle of Culloden, was buried. We decided to continue driving past Uig and hey presto – there was FINALLY a sign!
And now onwards with the adventures. Next stop… Fairy Glen!